The Rolex Datejust is the watch most people picture when they think of a Rolex. It has been made since 1945, it comes in four sizes, several metals, a handful of bezels and bracelets, and an enormous range of dials. That variety is its strength, and also what makes buying one confusing.
This guide explains every choice in order: size, metal, bezel, bracelet and dial. It then shows how the reference number tells you all of them at once, and what to check before you buy.
By the numbers: Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult estimate Rolex's 2023 sales at CHF 10.1 billion, a retail market share of just over 30% and more than the next five luxury watch brands combined. Rolex does not publish its own figures, so these are analysts' estimates (swissinfo.ch, 14 March 2024).
A short history
Rolex introduced the Datejust in 1945. It was the first self-winding wristwatch chronometer to show the date in a window on the dial. In 1953 Rolex added the Cyclops lens over the date, which magnifies it for easier reading and became one of the watch's signatures.
The basic idea has not changed since: an Oyster case, a self-winding chronometer movement and a date at 3 o'clock. What has changed is the range of sizes, materials and dials around it.
Step 1: Choose the size
The modern Datejust family comes in four sizes. They share the design, but they wear very differently.
| Model | Case | Current references | Movement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lady-Datejust | 28 mm | 2791xx | Caliber 2236 |
| Datejust 31 | 31 mm | 2782xx | Caliber 2236 |
| Datejust 36 | 36 mm | 1262xx | Caliber 3235 |
| Datejust 41 | 41 mm | 1263xx | Caliber 3235 |
A few practical points:
- 28 and 31 mm are traditionally seen as ladies' sizes, but the 31 mm is increasingly worn by anyone who likes a smaller, vintage-sized watch.
- 36 mm was the standard Datejust size for most of its history. It suits most wrists and looks right with a suit or a T-shirt.
- 41 mm, introduced in 2016, is the modern, more present size. On a larger wrist it looks balanced; on a smaller wrist it can feel big.
If you are torn between the two larger sizes, our comparison of the Datejust 36 vs 41 goes into fit and proportions in detail.
Step 2: Choose the metal
Rolex uses its own names for its metals and combinations:
- Oystersteel: Rolex's stainless steel.
- Rolesor: steel combined with gold. Yellow Rolesor pairs steel with yellow gold, Everose Rolesor with Rolex's rose gold (Everose), and White Rolesor combines a steel case with a white gold bezel.
- Solid gold: yellow, Everose or white gold, used for some Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models.
White Rolesor is the quiet choice: from a distance it looks like steel, and the white gold fluted bezel catches the light. Yellow and Everose Rolesor are more visible, and pair naturally with warmer dials.
Step 3: Choose the bezel
The bezel changes the character of a Datejust more than anything else.
- Smooth (domed): simple and understated, usually on steel versions.
- Fluted: the ridged bezel that has been a Datejust signature for decades. On Rolesor models it is made of gold.
- Gem-set: bezels set with diamonds at the factory. References with a suffix such as RBR have factory gem-set bezels.
A factory gem-set bezel is part of the reference, and should be confirmed on the warranty card. Aftermarket stones, added after the watch left Rolex, reduce its value considerably.
Step 4: Choose the bracelet
- Oyster: three broad, flat links. Sporty and robust.
- Jubilee: five smaller links. Dressier, and it drapes more comfortably around the wrist.
- President: semi-circular three-piece links, used on precious-metal models.
The bracelet is a matter of taste, but it also affects price and availability: some dial and bracelet combinations are much more sought after than others.
Step 5: Choose the dial
The dial is where most of the Datejust's variety lies: plain sunray dials in many colors, Roman or baton hour markers, diamond markers, mother-of-pearl, and patterned dials such as palm or fluted motifs. The slate dial with green Roman numerals, nicknamed "Wimbledon", is one of the best known.
Two practical points:
- The dial is not always visible in the six-digit reference. The full reference, with a four-digit suffix such as 126300-0025, identifies the exact dial.
- Photos can be misleading: sunray dials change color with the light. Ask for photos in daylight if you are unsure.
How to read a Datejust reference
The reference number tells you most of the above at once. On modern Datejust references:
- The first digits identify the size and generation (2791xx = Lady-Datejust 28, 2782xx = Datejust 31, 1262xx = Datejust 36, 1263xx = Datejust 41).
- The last digit identifies the metal combination. For example, a reference ending in 3 is Yellow Rolesor, 1 is Everose Rolesor, and 4 is White Rolesor (steel with a white gold bezel).
- Letters such as RBR indicate a factory gem-set bezel.
Our guide on how to read Rolex reference numbers explains the system across all Rolex models.
Older Datejust generations you will see pre-owned
When you shop pre-owned, you will meet earlier generations alongside current ones. The reference tells them apart:
| Generation | Example references (36 mm) | Movement | What changed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Five-digit | 16200, 16233, 16234 | Caliber 3135 | Sapphire crystal, quickset date; hollow bracelet end links on many versions |
| Six-digit "116" | 116200, 116233, 116234 | Caliber 3135 | Solid end links, a slightly bolder case and bracelet |
| Current "126" | 126200, 126233, 126234 | Caliber 3235 | Power reserve of about 70 hours, updated case and bracelet |
In the larger size, the Datejust II (116300, 116333, 116334; 41 mm, caliber 3136) preceded the current Datejust 41, which arrived in 2016 with the caliber 3235 and a slimmer bezel.
Which is right for you? Current models have the longest power reserve and the newest movement. Older generations can offer good value and a more vintage feel, but check the service history: a movement that has not been serviced for many years may need one soon.
Living with a Datejust
The Datejust is an Oyster: water resistant to 100 meters with a screw-down crown, so everyday life, rain and swimming are no problem as long as the crown is screwed down. It is a self-winding watch that keeps running as you wear it; if you take it off for a few days, wind it a few turns at the crown and set the time before you put it back on. Avoid changing the date manually when the hands are near midnight, while the date change is in progress.
What to check before you buy
- The reference and serial on the watch should match the warranty card.
- The dial and bezel should match the full reference. A dial or bezel swapped later, especially gem-set ones, is a red flag.
- The bracelet: on pre-owned watches, check for stretch between the links, particularly on Jubilee and President bracelets.
- The Cyclops: the date should be centered and magnified under it.
- The date change: the date should jump cleanly around midnight.
- Box and papers: a complete set with the warranty card is easier to sell later. See why box and papers matter.
Every watch we sell is checked by our specialist before it ships: you can read how we check every watch.
Which Datejust should you buy?
- For a versatile everyday watch: Datejust 36 in steel or White Rolesor, on a Jubilee bracelet.
- For a modern, bolder look: Datejust 41, in steel with a smooth bezel or Rolesor with a fluted one.
- For a smaller, elegant watch: Datejust 31 or Lady-Datejust 28, often with diamond markers or a gem-set bezel.
- For resale: popular dials on steel and Rolesor models tend to have the widest market.
You can browse every size in stock on our Rolex collection or go straight to the Datejust 36, Datejust 41, Datejust 31 or Lady-Datejust.
Frequently asked questions
What sizes does the Rolex Datejust come in?
Today the Datejust family comes in 28 mm (Lady-Datejust), 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm.
What is the difference between the Datejust 31 and the Lady-Datejust?
Size: the Lady-Datejust is 28 mm and the Datejust 31 is 31 mm. Both use the caliber 2236 in current references, and both come in many metal, bezel and dial combinations.
What does Rolesor mean?
Rolesor is Rolex's name for steel combined with gold: Yellow Rolesor (yellow gold), Everose Rolesor (rose gold) or White Rolesor (a steel case with a white gold bezel).
Is the fluted bezel real gold?
On Rolesor Datejust models the fluted bezel is made of gold: white gold on White Rolesor, yellow gold on Yellow Rolesor and Everose gold on Everose Rolesor.
What does RBR mean in a Rolex reference?
It indicates a bezel set with diamonds at the factory. It should appear in the reference on the warranty card.
Oyster or Jubilee bracelet: which is better?
Neither is better. The Oyster is sportier and more robust-looking; the Jubilee is dressier and many find it more comfortable. It is a matter of taste.
