The Rolex Submariner is the dive watch that defined the category. It is also one of the most recognizable watches in the world, and one of the most searched for. Because so many versions exist, the most useful thing a buyer can know is how to tell them apart.
This guide explains the current Submariner references, the older generations you will find pre-owned, how to choose between them, and what to check before you buy.
By the numbers: Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult estimate Rolex's 2023 sales at CHF 10.1 billion, a retail market share of just over 30% and more than the next five luxury watch brands combined. Rolex does not publish its own figures, so these are analysts' estimates (swissinfo.ch, 14 March 2024).
A short history
Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953. It was a dive watch built around the waterproof Oyster case, with a rotating bezel to time a dive. The first models were water resistant to 100 meters; today the Submariner is rated to 300 meters.
A date version arrived in 1969. In the 2000s Rolex introduced its Cerachrom ceramic bezel inserts, which resist scratches and fading, first on gold models in 2008 and on the steel Submariner Date in 2010. In 2020 the current generation arrived: a 41 mm case with slimmer lugs and new movements.
The current Submariner range (since 2020)
| Reference | Metal | Dial / bezel | Date | Movement |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 124060 | Oystersteel | Black / black | No | Caliber 3230 |
| 126610LN | Oystersteel | Black / black | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126610LV | Oystersteel | Black / green | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126613LN | Yellow Rolesor | Black / black | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126613LB | Yellow Rolesor | Blue / blue | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126618LN | Yellow gold | Black / black | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126618LB | Yellow gold | Blue / blue | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
| 126619LB | White gold | Black / blue | Yes | Caliber 3235 |
All current models measure 41 mm, are water resistant to 300 meters, and have a power reserve of about 70 hours.
Reading the reference: the suffix tells you the bezel color (LN for black, from the French lunette noire; LV for green, lunette verte; LB for blue, lunette bleue). The last digit of the number tells you the metal: 0 for steel, 3 for Yellow Rolesor, 8 for yellow gold and 9 for white gold. Our guide on how to read Rolex reference numbers explains the system in full.
Date or no-date?
This is the first choice most buyers make:
- The no-date Submariner (124060) is the purest version: a symmetrical dial with no Cyclops lens. Many collectors see it as the most faithful to the original tool watch.
- The Submariner Date (126610LN) adds the date at 3 o'clock under the Cyclops lens. It is the more practical everyday watch.
Mechanically they are very close; the choice is mostly about looks.
Steel, Rolesor or gold?
- Oystersteel is the classic, most versatile choice, and the version most buyers search for.
- Yellow Rolesor (steel and yellow gold) combines the toughness of steel with the warmth of gold; the blue version (126613LB) is one of the most recognizable.
- Solid yellow or white gold models are heavier and more discreet in their own way. The white gold 126619LB pairs a black dial with a blue bezel.
The green bezel: 126610LV
The 126610LV has a green Cerachrom bezel with a black dial. Green has a long history on the Submariner: in 2003 Rolex marked the model's 50th anniversary with a green aluminum bezel on the 16610LV, and later produced the 116610LV with a green dial and a green ceramic bezel. Collectors often refer to these by nicknames, but the reference is what matters when you buy.
Older generations you will see pre-owned
| Generation | Example references | Case | Bezel insert | Movement |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Five-digit | 16610 (date), 14060/14060M (no date) | 40 mm | Aluminum | 3135 / 3000, 3130 |
| Six-digit "116"/"114" | 116610LN, 116610LV (date), 114060 (no date) | 40 mm, broader lugs | Ceramic (Cerachrom) | 3135 / 3130 |
| Current "126"/"124" | 126610LN, 126610LV, 124060 | 41 mm, slimmer lugs | Ceramic (Cerachrom) | 3235 / 3230 |
How they differ in practice:
- Aluminum bezels (five-digit references) can fade and scratch over time, which some collectors love and others avoid.
- The 116610 generation introduced the ceramic bezel and a bolder case, as well as the Glidelock clasp, which lets you extend the bracelet without tools.
- The current generation has the longest power reserve and slimmer, more balanced proportions despite the slightly larger 41 mm case.
What to check before you buy
- Reference and serial: the numbers on the watch should match the warranty card. The reference is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock on modern watches.
- The bezel: it should turn one way only (counter-clockwise), with 120 precise clicks. Check the ceramic insert for chips.
- The Cyclops (date models): the date should be centered and magnified about 2.5 times.
- The bracelet: on pre-owned watches, check for stretch, and that the Glidelock extension slides and locks properly.
- The crown: it should screw down smoothly. A Submariner relies on the screw-down crown for its water resistance.
- The full set: box, warranty card and extra links matter for resale. See why box and papers matter.
Because the Submariner is so popular, it is also one of the most counterfeited watches. Our guide on how to spot a fake Rolex covers what to look at, and every watch we sell is checked by our specialist before it ships.
Submariner or Tudor Black Bay?
If you like the Submariner's look but are also considering a lower price point, the Tudor Black Bay, from Rolex's sister brand, is the most common alternative. Our Rolex Submariner vs Tudor Black Bay comparison explains how they differ, and our Tudor Black Bay guide covers every Black Bay version.
Which Submariner should you buy?
- The purist's choice: 124060, the no-date Submariner.
- The everyday classic: 126610LN, the steel Submariner Date.
- Something different in steel: 126610LV, with the green bezel.
- Steel and gold: 126613LB in blue, or 126613LN in black.
- Precious metal: 126618LB or LN in yellow gold, or 126619LB in white gold.
See every Submariner in stock in our Submariner collection, or browse the full Rolex collection and our unworn watches.
Frequently asked questions
What size is the Rolex Submariner?
Current models measure 41 mm. Earlier generations measured 40 mm.
What is the difference between the 124060 and the 126610LN?
The 126610LN has a date with a Cyclops lens; the 124060 has no date. Both are 41 mm steel Submariners with black dials and bezels.
What does LN, LV and LB mean?
They describe the bezel color: LN is black, LV is green and LB is blue.
How water resistant is the Submariner?
Current models are water resistant to 300 meters, with a screw-down crown.
Which Submariner holds its value best?
No watch is guaranteed to hold its value. Historically, steel models have had the widest market. Check current listings for the exact reference and condition before you decide.
What is the Glidelock clasp?
A clasp extension system that lets you lengthen or shorten the bracelet in small steps without tools, for example to wear it over a wetsuit or on a warm day.
