Choosing a Rolex often comes down to a question that has nothing to do with the movement: which bracelet? On a Datejust or a GMT-Master II, the same watch is sold on two different bracelets, and the choice changes how it looks, how it feels and how easy it is to find.
Rolex makes three classic metal bracelets, the Oyster, the Jubilee and the President. This guide explains what separates them, which models offer which, and how to check the bracelet on the watch you are about to buy.
The three bracelets at a glance
| Oyster | Jubilee | President | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Links | Three across, flat and broad | Five across, small and rounded | Three across, semi-circular |
| Introduced | Late 1930s | 1945, with the Datejust | 1956, with the Day-Date |
| Character | Sporty, plain | Dressy, catches the light | Formal, substantial |
| Metals | Steel, Rolesor, gold, platinum | Steel, Rolesor, gold | Gold and platinum only |
| Found on | Almost every model | Datejust, GMT-Master II, Sky-Dweller | Day-Date, some gold Datejust models |
The Oyster bracelet
The Oyster is the oldest of the three and the one most Rolex watches wear. Each row has three flat links: a wide center link and two outer links. It is the simplest and sturdiest design, which is why every Professional model uses it, from the Submariner to the Explorer and the Daytona.
There are two finishes, and they change the look more than you might expect:
- Fully brushed: all three links have a satin finish. This is the tool-watch look of the Submariner and the Explorer, and it hides small scratches well.
- Polished center links: the middle link is mirror-polished and the outer links are brushed. You find this on the Daytona, on the GMT-Master II with an Oyster bracelet, and on Datejust models. It is dressier, and the polished links show fine marks sooner.
Who it suits: buyers who want one watch for everything, who prefer a plainer look, or who are hard on their watches. On a Datejust, the Oyster bracelet makes the watch look more modern and a little larger.
The Jubilee bracelet
Rolex created the Jubilee for the launch of the Datejust in 1945, the year of the company's fortieth anniversary, which is where the name comes from. Each row has five links: three small polished links in the center between two larger brushed ones.
The smaller links make the Jubilee the most flexible of the three. It follows the wrist closely, and many owners find it the most comfortable Rolex bracelet in daily wear. The mix of polished and brushed surfaces also catches the light and hides small scratches among the many links.
For decades the Jubilee belonged to the Datejust. Rolex then brought it to the steel GMT-Master II in 2018, and it is also offered on the Sky-Dweller.
Who it suits: buyers who want the classic Datejust look, who value comfort, or who like a bracelet with some sparkle. On a Datejust with a fluted bezel, the Jubilee is the traditional pairing.
A note on older Jubilee bracelets
On vintage and older pre-owned watches, the Jubilee has hollow or folded links, and after many years of wear the bracelet can loosen, which collectors call "stretch". Modern Jubilee bracelets have solid links and hold their shape far better. If you are looking at an older Datejust, look at the photographs of the bracelet from the side and ask us about its condition.
The President bracelet
The President was introduced in 1956 for the Day-Date, the watch that shows the day of the week spelled out in full. It has three semi-circular links per row. They are rounder and closer together than the links of the Oyster, with polished center links, and they give the bracelet a rich, heavy look.
Two things set the President apart:
- It is only made in precious metal. Rolex has never made it in steel: you find it in yellow, white and Everose gold and in platinum.
- It has a concealed clasp. The Crownclasp closes so that the bracelet looks unbroken, with only a small Rolex crown to show where it opens.
The President is the bracelet of the Day-Date 40 and the Day-Date 36, and it also appears on some gold versions of the smaller Datejust models.
Who it suits: the President is not really a choice between options. If you want a Day-Date, this is its bracelet. Our Day-Date buying guide covers the sizes and metals.
Which Rolex models offer which bracelet
| Model | Oyster | Jubilee | President |
|---|---|---|---|
| Datejust 36 and 41 | Yes | Yes | No |
| Day-Date 36 and 40 | No | No | Yes |
| GMT-Master II (steel) | Yes | Yes | No |
| Sky-Dweller | Yes | Yes | No |
| Submariner, Explorer, Daytona | Yes | No | No |
| Oyster Perpetual | Yes | No | No |
This table describes current production; older generations can differ. On the models with a choice, both versions share the same six-digit reference. A Datejust 41 reference 126334, for example, exists on the Oyster and on the Jubilee. The longer reference on the warranty card, with four more digits after a dash, identifies the exact combination of dial and bracelet. Our guide to reading Rolex reference numbers explains the rest of the code.
We have 231 Datejust 41 watches and 241 Datejust 36 watches in stock. Every listing shows the bracelet in its photographs, so you can compare the two styles side by side.
Clasps and extensions
The bracelet is half of the story. The clasp decides how easy the watch is to live with.
- Oysterclasp: the folding clasp found on most Oyster and many Jubilee bracelets.
- Oysterlock: a folding clasp with an extra safety catch that stops it opening by accident. It is fitted to the Professional models.
- Crownclasp: the concealed clasp of the President, also fitted to some Jubilee bracelets.
Wrists change size through the day and with the weather, so Rolex builds small adjustments into its clasps:
- Easylink: a link inside the clasp that folds out to add about 5 mm, without tools. It is found on most current Oyster and Jubilee bracelets.
- Glidelock: a sliding extension on dive watches such as the Submariner, adjustable in small steps to a total of about 20 mm, made to fit over a wetsuit.
Rolex also makes the Oysterflex, introduced in 2015. It looks like a black rubber strap but has a flexible metal blade inside. It is fitted to gold versions of the Yacht-Master, the Daytona and the Sky-Dweller.
Oyster or Jubilee on a Datejust: how to decide
Most buyers who ask this question are choosing a Datejust. Three practical points help:
- Decide on the bezel first. A smooth bezel with an Oyster bracelet is the sportiest Datejust. A fluted bezel with a Jubilee is the most traditional. The other two combinations sit between them.
- Think about comfort. If you have a smaller wrist or find bracelets stiff, the Jubilee's smaller links usually feel better. Our comparison of the Datejust 36 and 41 covers the sizes.
- Do not plan to swap later. A genuine Rolex bracelet bought separately is expensive, and a watch is worth most with the bracelet it was delivered on. Buy the combination you want.
There is no wrong answer. Both bracelets are original to the model, both are made to the same standard, and both are easy to sell again.
What to check on the bracelet before you buy
- All the links. A new Rolex is delivered with a set number of links. If links have been removed and lost, the bracelet may not fit a larger wrist, and replacements cost money. Ask us how many links are on the watch and what wrist size it fits.
- The clasp. It should close firmly with no play. Scratches on the clasp are normal on a worn watch; a loose clasp is not.
- Stretch on older bracelets. Hold the watch sideways in the photographs: an older Jubilee or President that droops has wear in its links.
- Polishing. Heavy polishing rounds the edges of the links. Ask us for live photographs of the exact watch and look at the edges of the outer links.
- Originality. The bracelet should be the type and metal that belongs to the reference. Our specialist checks this on every watch before it ships, as described on our authenticity page.
Frequently asked questions
Which Rolex bracelet is the most comfortable?
Many owners find the Jubilee the most comfortable, because its five small links follow the wrist closely. The Oyster is flatter and firmer, and the President is the heaviest because it is made of gold or platinum.
Can I change an Oyster bracelet for a Jubilee?
On models offered with both, such as the current Datejust and the steel GMT-Master II, the other bracelet will fit. A genuine bracelet bought separately is expensive, though, and the watch is worth most with its original one, so it is better to buy the combination you want.
Is the President bracelet made in steel?
No. Rolex makes the President only in gold and platinum. A steel watch on a bracelet that looks like a President has an aftermarket bracelet.
What is the difference between the Jubilee and the President?
The Jubilee has five small links per row and is made in steel, Rolesor and gold. The President has three larger semi-circular links per row, is made only in precious metal and has a concealed clasp.
Does the bracelet change the price of a Rolex?
Yes. Between two watches of the same reference, the bracelet, the dial and the condition all move the price, and demand for each combination changes over time. Compare the listings for the reference you want to see the difference today.
Are your Rolex watches authentic?
Yes. Every watch is checked by our specialist before it ships. We are an independent retailer and are not affiliated with Rolex.
