The Cartier Tank is a family of rectangular dress watches that share one idea: two parallel bars down the sides of the case that become the lugs. The four you are most likely to buy are the Tank Must, in steel and the least expensive; the Tank Louis Cartier, in gold and the purest form; the Tank Française, on an integrated metal bracelet; and the Tank Américaine, long and curved. Choose by metal and by whether you want a strap or a bracelet, then pick the size.
A Tank is one of the few watches that is equally right on a man or a woman. We have 84 Tank watches in stock, from $2,200.
By the numbers: Switzerland exported CHF 25.9 billion of watches in 2024, 2.8% less than in 2023, in 15.3 million pieces (9.4% fewer), according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (swissinfo.ch, 30 January 2025).
What makes a Tank a Tank
Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917, and it went on sale in 1919. Its shape is said to have been inspired by the outline of the tanks of the First World War seen from above: the two side bars are the tracks and the case between them is the body. Those bars, which Cartier calls brancards, run past the dial to form the lugs, so the strap seems to continue the line of the case.
The rest of the design has hardly changed in a century:
- Roman numerals on a white or silvered dial.
- A "railroad" minute track inside the numerals.
- Blued steel hands in the shape of a sword.
- A blue cabochon set in the crown.
- A tiny secret signature, the word Cartier hidden in one of the numerals, on most models.
The main Tank models
Tank Must
The Tank Must, introduced in its current form in 2021, is the entry to the family and the Tank most people buy first. It is made in steel, with softly rounded bars.
- Sizes: Small, Large and Extra-Large.
- Movements: quartz in the Small and Large; an automatic movement in the Extra-Large, which also has a date. There is a light-powered version too, called SolarBeat, with a battery designed to last many years.
- Strap: leather, or a steel bracelet on some versions.
It replaced the Tank Solo, made from 2004 to 2021, which you will find pre-owned. The Solo is a little flatter and more angular and is usually the least expensive Tank of all.
Choose it if you want the look in steel, at the lowest price.
Tank Louis Cartier
This is the definitive Tank, in the form Louis Cartier gave it in 1922: softer, rounded bars and gentler corners. It is made in gold, yellow or rose, on a leather strap, and most versions have a slim hand-wound mechanical movement.
It is a dress watch in the strict sense: thin, light and discreet.
Choose it if you want the classic and are buying in gold.
Tank Française
Introduced in 1996 and redesigned in 2023, the Française is the Tank as a bracelet watch. Its case is slightly curved and flows into a chain-link metal bracelet with no visible break, which makes it look like a piece of jewelry. It is made in steel, in steel and gold, and in gold, mostly with quartz movements in the smaller sizes.
It is the sportiest Tank and the easiest to wear every day, since a steel bracelet does not mind rain.
Choose it if you want a bracelet instead of a strap.
Tank Américaine
Introduced in 1989, the Américaine stretches the Tank into a long, slim rectangle and curves it to follow the wrist. It is the most elegant of the four on a larger wrist, and it wears bigger than a Must or Louis Cartier of similar width because of its length. It is made in steel and in gold.
Choose it if you want a more dramatic shape.
Others you may see
- Tank Anglaise: a wider model with the crown set into the side bar.
- Tank Cintrée and Tank Asymétrique: rare, collectible shapes from Cartier's history, reissued in small numbers.
- Privé editions: limited runs of historic designs for collectors.
Size: read the dimensions, not the name
Cartier names its sizes Small, Large and Extra-Large instead of quoting diameters, and a rectangular watch has two measurements, width and length. That causes confusion.
A few points help:
- A Tank is narrow. A "Large" Tank Must is roughly 25 mm wide and 33 mm long, small by the standards of round watches, and that is the point.
- Length matters most. It decides whether the watch spans your wrist.
- The traditional sizes follow old conventions: Small for women, Large for men. Ignore them and choose by your wrist. Many men wear the Large; many women wear the Large as well.
Each listing on our site gives the case dimensions, and the Real size button shows the watch at its true size on your screen. Our guide to choosing your watch size explains how to measure.
Quartz or mechanical?
Many Tanks are quartz, and that is nothing to regret. A quartz movement lets the case stay very thin, keeps excellent time and suits a watch worn on some days and not others. Cartier has used quartz in the Tank for decades.
Mechanical Tanks are found mainly in the Louis Cartier, the Extra-Large Must and the larger Américaine and Française models. They cost more. The Movement line of the specifications tells you which a watch has; our guide to automatic and quartz explains the difference.
Water and daily wear
A Tank is a dress watch. Most are protected against splashes only and are not meant for swimming, and a leather strap should be kept dry in any case. If you want a Cartier you can wear in the water, the Santos is the answer: it is rated to 100 meters. Our comparison of the Santos and the Tank sets the two side by side.
Which Tank should you buy?
| You want | Look at |
|---|---|
| The lowest price | Tank Solo (pre-owned) or Tank Must |
| The classic, in gold | Tank Louis Cartier |
| A bracelet | Tank Française |
| A longer, curved case | Tank Américaine |
| A mechanical movement in steel | Tank Must Extra-Large |
What to check before you buy
- The model and generation. Must, Solo, Louis Cartier and Française look alike in small photographs; the reference and the title settle it.
- The metal. Steel, gold, or steel and gold. Gold-plated Must de Cartier watches from the 1970s and 1980s also exist; they are a different and much less expensive thing than solid gold.
- The dimensions, on the listing.
- Quartz or mechanical.
- The strap and buckle. An original Cartier folding clasp or buckle has real value; check that it is included.
- Box and papers. See why box and papers matter.
You can browse every Tank and every Cartier we have in stock. For help choosing a formal watch, see how to choose a dress watch.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between the Tank Must and the Tank Louis Cartier?
The Tank Must is made in steel and is the less expensive model, mostly quartz. The Tank Louis Cartier is made in gold, usually with a hand-wound movement, and has the classic rounded shape of 1922.
Is the Cartier Tank a men's or women's watch?
Both. It has been worn by men and women since it was introduced. Choose the size that suits your wrist.
Is a quartz Cartier Tank worth buying?
Yes. Quartz keeps the watch thin and accurate, and many of the best-known Tank models are quartz.
Can I swim with a Cartier Tank?
No. Most Tank models are protected against splashes only, and leather straps should be kept dry.
What is the cheapest Cartier Tank?
Usually a pre-owned Tank Solo in steel, followed by the Tank Must in the Small or Large size.
Is Watchflix NYC an official Cartier retailer?
No. We are an independent retailer and are not affiliated with Cartier. Every watch is checked by our specialist before it ships.
