The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional comes in two versions that share the same case, dial and movement. The Hesalite version (310.30.42.50.01.001) has an acrylic crystal and a closed steel case back, as on the watches worn on the Moon. The sapphire version (310.30.42.50.01.002) has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a glass case back that shows the movement, and it costs more. Choose Hesalite for the historical watch and the warmer look; choose sapphire if you want to see the movement and worry less about scratches.
Both are in our stock: 9 of the Hesalite version, from $4,620, and 11 of the sapphire version, from $4,970.
Speedmaster Hesalite vs sapphire at a glance
| Hesalite | Sapphire | |
|---|---|---|
| Reference | 310.30.42.50.01.001 | 310.30.42.50.01.002 |
| Front crystal | Hesalite (acrylic) | Sapphire |
| Case back | Closed steel, engraved | Sapphire, movement visible |
| Bracelet | Fully brushed | Polished links between brushed ones |
| Omega logo on dial | Printed | Applied |
| Case | 42 mm, steel | 42 mm, steel |
| Movement | Caliber 3861, hand-wound | Caliber 3861, hand-wound |
| Power reserve | About 50 hours | About 50 hours |
| Water resistance | 50 meters | 50 meters |
What is the same
Both belong to the generation introduced in 2021. They share the 42 mm asymmetrical steel case, the black "step" dial, the tachymeter bezel and the caliber 3861, a hand-wound chronograph movement certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS: tested to within 0 to +5 seconds a day and resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Both are wound by hand through the crown, which most owners do each morning.
The only difference in the reference is the last digit, which is why it is worth learning to read it. Our guide to Omega reference numbers explains the code.
Omega Speedmaster Hesalite: the original recipe
Hesalite is Omega's name for the acrylic crystal the Speedmaster has had since the 1950s. It is the configuration NASA tested and approved, and the one the Apollo astronauts wore. One reason it was kept for spaceflight is that acrylic does not shatter into fragments if it breaks.
On the wrist, Hesalite has a character of its own. It is domed, it distorts the edge of the dial slightly when you look across it, and it gives the watch a warm, soft look that sapphire does not quite reproduce. Many enthusiasts consider it the "correct" Moonwatch for that reason.
The trade-off is that acrylic scratches. A brush against a door frame will leave a mark. The consolation is that light scratches polish out in a few minutes with a tube of polishing paste, and a crystal can be replaced inexpensively at a service.
The Hesalite version has a closed steel case back engraved with the Speedmaster's seahorse emblem and the words that record its qualification for NASA's missions. Its bracelet is brushed throughout, and the Omega logo on the dial is printed.
Omega Speedmaster sapphire: the "sapphire sandwich"
The sapphire version is often called the "sapphire sandwich", because it has sapphire on both sides. Sapphire crystal is very hard to scratch, so the front of the watch stays clear for years with no attention.
The glass case back is the other half of the appeal. The caliber 3861 is a handsome movement, with its bridges, levers and gold-colored finish, and on this version you can watch the chronograph work. On a hand-wound watch, with no rotor in the way, the view is complete.
There are small differences of detail as well. The sapphire version has an applied Omega logo on the dial, and its bracelet has polished links between the brushed ones, which makes it a little dressier. Because sapphire is a different material with a different shape, the crystal has a slightly different profile, and at some angles it shows a pale ring at its edge that the Hesalite does not.
Which costs more?
The sapphire version, both new and pre-owned. The live figures at the top of this page show the gap in our stock today. Whether it is worth it depends on how much you value the view of the movement and the harder crystal.
How to choose
Choose the Hesalite version if:
- The history is the reason you want a Speedmaster.
- You like the warmer, vintage look of a domed acrylic crystal.
- You are happy to polish out the occasional scratch.
Choose the sapphire version if:
- You want to see the movement.
- You would rather not think about scratches.
- You prefer the slightly dressier bracelet and applied logo.
Neither is the better watch. They are the same watch finished two ways, and both hold their appeal well.
Bracelet or strap?
Each version is also sold on a strap instead of the steel bracelet, with a 32 in place of the 30 in the second group of the reference: 310.32.42.50.01.001 is the Hesalite watch on a fabric strap, and 310.32.42.50.01.002 is the sapphire watch on leather. The bracelet version is the one to buy if you are unsure, since a bracelet is the expensive part to add later.
Other Moonwatches
The same family includes versions with a white dial, in Omega's gold alloys, and in two-tone. They follow the same reference pattern and use the same movement. Our Speedmaster buying guide covers the whole range, including the smaller and automatic Speedmasters, which are different watches.
What to check before you buy
- The last digit of the reference: .001 is Hesalite, .002 is sapphire.
- The crystal. On a pre-owned Hesalite watch, fine scratches are normal and polish out; deep ones may need a new crystal.
- The chronograph. Start, stop and reset should feel crisp, and the hands should return exactly to zero.
- Box and papers. Recent watches come with a warranty card and a Master Chronometer card.
You can browse every Speedmaster we have in stock, or read how the Moonwatch compares with the Rolex Daytona.
Frequently asked questions
What is Hesalite?
It is Omega's name for the acrylic crystal used on the Speedmaster. It is the material the watch had when NASA qualified it for spaceflight.
Does Hesalite scratch easily?
Yes, more easily than sapphire. Light scratches can be polished out with polishing paste in a few minutes.
Which Speedmaster is the real Moonwatch?
Both are Moonwatch Professional models. The Hesalite version with the closed case back is the closer of the two to the watches worn on the Moon.
Can you see the movement on the Hesalite Speedmaster?
No. It has a closed steel case back. The sapphire version has a glass back that shows the caliber 3861.
Is the Speedmaster Moonwatch waterproof?
It is water resistant to 50 meters, which covers rain and washing your hands. It is not a watch for swimming.
Is Watchflix NYC an official Omega retailer?
No. We are an independent retailer and are not affiliated with Omega. Every watch is checked by our specialist before it ships.
