Audemars Piguet is one of the oldest watchmakers still in the hands of its founding families. Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus, in Switzerland's Vallée de Joux, it is best known today for one watch that changed the industry: the Royal Oak.
This guide explains the Royal Oak and its main versions, AP's other collections, how to read an Audemars Piguet reference, and what to check before you buy.
By the numbers: Switzerland exported CHF 25.9 billion of watches in 2024, 2.8% less than in 2023, in 15.3 million pieces (9.4% fewer), according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (swissinfo.ch, 30 January 2025).
The Royal Oak
Designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the first luxury sports watch in steel, priced like a gold watch. Its design is instantly recognizable:
- an octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws,
- an integrated bracelet that flows from the case,
- the "Tapisserie" pattern on the dial, a fine grid of small squares,
- alternating brushed and polished surfaces with sharp edges.
Royal Oak sizes and versions you will see
| Version | Typical size | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| Royal Oak Selfwinding (e.g. 15500ST, 15510ST) | 41 mm | The core three-hand Royal Oak with date |
| Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin (e.g. 15202ST, 16202ST) | 39 mm | The modern heir to the original 1972 design, very thin |
| Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm (e.g. 15450, 15550) | 37 mm | A smaller size, often chosen by both men and women |
| Royal Oak Chronograph | 38–41 mm | The Royal Oak with a chronograph |
| Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked (e.g. 15407ST) | 41 mm | An openworked dial showing the movement and its double balance wheel |
| Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and other complications | Various | High complications in the Royal Oak case |
How to choose: the 41 mm selfwinding is the everyday Royal Oak; the Jumbo is the purist's choice; the 37 mm suits smaller wrists; openworked and complicated models are for collectors who want to see or use more of the movement.
See every Royal Oak in stock in our Royal Oak collection. Most of our Audemars Piguet watches are unworn: see our unworn watches.
Royal Oak Offshore and Code 11.59
- The Royal Oak Offshore, introduced in 1993, is a larger, bolder take on the Royal Oak, often in chronograph form and in materials such as ceramic, titanium and forged carbon.
- Code 11.59, introduced in 2019, is a contemporary round collection with a complex case shape and a double-curved crystal.
How to read an Audemars Piguet reference
AP references look complicated but follow a pattern. Take 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01:
- 15500 is the model.
- ST is the case material: ST for steel, OR for pink gold, BA for yellow gold, BC for white gold, PT for platinum, TI for titanium.
- OO means the case has no gem setting.
- 1220ST identifies the bracelet (here in steel).
- 01 identifies the dial and version.
So a 15500ST is a 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding in steel, and the last part of the reference tells you the dial color or variation.
What to check before you buy
- Papers and numbers: the case number and reference should match the papers. At this level, a complete set matters a great deal. See why box and papers matter.
- Polishing: the Royal Oak's character depends on its sharp edges between brushed and polished surfaces. A heavily polished case loses that, and its value.
- The bracelet: check for stretch and that the clasp closes firmly.
- The bezel screws: all eight should be aligned and undamaged.
- The dial: the Tapisserie pattern should be crisp and the dial undamaged.
- Service history: ask when the watch was last serviced.
Every watch we sell is checked by our specialist before it ships.
Royal Oak or Patek Philippe Nautilus?
The Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus were both designed by Gérald Genta, and they are often compared. The Royal Oak is more angular, with its octagonal bezel and visible screws; the Nautilus has a rounded porthole-shaped case. Our Patek Philippe buying guide explains the Nautilus.
Frequently asked questions
Who designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak?
Gérald Genta, who also designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Royal Oak was launched in 1972.
What is the difference between the 15500 and the 15510?
Both are 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models in the same family; the 15510 succeeded the 15500 with refinements to the case and dial. Compare the exact reference and papers when buying.
What is a "Jumbo" Royal Oak?
The nickname for the Extra-Thin Royal Oak, 39 mm, the closest modern equivalent to the original 1972 model.
What do ST, OR, BA and BC mean in an AP reference?
They are case materials: ST is steel, OR is pink gold, BA is yellow gold and BC is white gold.
Is Audemars Piguet still family-owned?
Yes. Audemars Piguet is still owned by the founding families, which is rare among the major Swiss watchmakers.
